Experiencing the Magic of the Kandy to Colombo Train Ride

There are very few countries left in the world where the public rail system is considered the premier tourist attraction. Sri Lanka is the magnificent exception. What the British designed in the 1800s to haul coffee and tea down the mountains to the commercial port of Colombo has evolved into one of the greatest travel experiences on earth.

The Unmatched Coastal Views

While everyone talks about the Kandy to Ella route, the reverse journey from Kandy down to Colombo (and onward to Galle) is equally spectacular. As the train leaves the misty hill country, rolling past sprawling tea estates, it begins its descent to sea level. By the time it passes through Mount Lavinia towards Galle, the tracks literally run along the sandy beaches. The ocean waves crash mere feet away from the open train doors.

Hanging out the Door

A rite of passage in Sri Lankan rail travel is sitting by the open doorways. Unlike most modern countries with hermetically sealed, high-speed rail cabins, Sri Lankan trains trundle along slowly with their doors permanently thrown open to let in the cool upland breeze. Backpackers and locals alike sit in the doorways, legs dangling over the edge, feeling the wind as they ride over 100-foot ravines and brick viaducts.

The Vendors

The train essentially functions as a moving street market. Every time it pulls into a small village station, vendors jump aboard carrying massive wicker baskets chanting their wares. You will smell the spicy aroma of hot "Isso Wade" (prawn fritters), freshly fried peanuts, and sliced mango covered in chili flakes before you even see them. Hand over fifty rupees, grab a snack wrapped in newspaper, and enjoy the ride.